Author Archive

La Grenouillere

My visit to La Grenouillere, a Michelin starred restaurant in a village called La Madelaine Sous Montreuil in Nothern France, had a certain resonance. My husband and I first visited on a bitterly cold day in late winter, the trees along the river Canche bare to the wind. We had come to celebrate my 35th birthday,yet I felt unusually sad.
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Eating in Istanbul – Ciya Sofrasi

On the last  day of our stay in Istanbul we made a pilgrimage to Ciya Sofrasi. Situated on the Asian side of the city, Ciya has become known as one of the best restaurants in the city so we were expecting a great lunch. Part of the joy in visiting Ciya is the ferry ride across the Bosphorous, from Karakoy
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Eating in Istanbul: Lokanta Maya

The food scene in Istanbul is as hot as the politics right now. There is some seriously good food to be had if you know where to get it. Lokanta Maya is a very popular restaurant in Istanbul and allegedly hard to secure a reservation. Yet I had simply emailed a few days before and received a speedy response confirming
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Istanbu Skyline

Off The Beaten Track in Istanbul: Vefa Bozacisi

Some of the most interesting eating experiences happen off the beaten track in neighbourhoods not frequented by tourists. Often this exposes the traveler to how ordinary people are living which, in Istanbul, took us to some sadly derelict areas. Poor neighbourhoods nestling alongside mosques of grandeur and splendour, abodes that appear to have survived an earthquake yet still housing families.
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Oranges Le Marche aux Enfants Rouges Paris

Le Marche aux Enfants Rouges – Paris

This market in the North Marais was a gem of a find. It is the oldest covered market in Paris dating back to 1615. Slightly on the scruffy side, the food is nevertheless worth finding. The entrance is not immediately obvious and, when we went, was covered with scaffolding. The curious name of the market hails back to the 17th
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Egg and Salt Kitchen Journeys

Egg Mayonnaise: Parisian Bistro Classic

What is it with Parisians and Ouefs Durs Mayonnaise? A bistro classic so beloved that it has a society for its preservation? Yes, it is called Association de sauvegarde de l’ouef mayo (ASOM) and it selects the best egg mayo in Paris each year. Perhaps it is a Parisian particularity, one of those foods you yearn for from your childhood,
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Rue de Nil

En route to Paris last week, I read an article in the Eurostar magazine written by Clotilde Dusoulier (of  the wonderful blog Chocolate and Zucchini) who described a street with recently opened shops where unusual varieties of fish and vegetables could be bought, the sorts of foods one might have eaten in a Paris restaurant. As luck would have it,
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Frenchie Bar A Vins Menu

Frenchie Bar A Vins

So hot it has a fire bucket hanging outside its front door, Frenchie Bar a Vins is situated in a rather unprepossessing, steel-grated street filled with garbage cans. True, during daytime hours, the grates are open to reveal tiny shops where those in the know can purchase fruits, vegetables, fish and meat – the sorts of foods they may have
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Horses For Courses

The growing concern about horse meat in processed foods in the UK has got me thinking about differing cultural attitudes to which animals we are prepared to eat.  In France, supermarkets have a section in the meat department specifically for horse meat and one can order horse steak tartar in some restaurants. Yet on this side of the channel, lasagnas
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Madeleine Moments

If Proust had become a father I doubt his children would have shared his enthusiasm for the madeleine. As he dipped the dainty cake into his tea, his teenage sons (I imagine them as boys) would have raised an eyebrow to one another, a non verbal gesture that speaks volumes, conveying their mutual exasperation with a dad who was slightly
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